Suspension set-up is always a matter of individual opinion so you have to decide for yourself.
Different people have different ideas so there are many answers to the same questions. All we can do here is tell you what we do as a result of years of experience and research. We can also warn you of the pit-falls.
You don't always get it right first time so the "coilover" design with it's easy height adjustment is a brilliant idea.
The spring rate is also a matter of individual taste and requirement. Going to 2 1/4 ID springs gives you a huge range to choose from.
We stock - 200 - 250 - 300 - 350 - 400 Others are available to order
If you're reading this, you're obviously considering going to coilovers. Hopefully, the information gathered here will help you make an informed decision.
Do it yourself - why not - we stock everything you need and we'll show you how.
This is what they should look like when you're talking fast road and track.
The next pictures are some of the things you need to avoid.
This was purchased by a club member and bought to us to fit. He was so embarrassed, he wouldn't tell us where it came from other than ebay.
The thread has been fitted too low so the spring will drop between the tyre and the strut. On an Escort, that's a bad thing. If the spring is above the tyre as the original is, the tyres can be wider depending on the wheel off-set of course.
Welding fall-out on the threads? Considering how easy it is to stop this and the problems it causes' it's unforgivable.
Think this one speaks for itself
This is also unforgivable - Cutting into the strut tube when removing the original spring seat. Because it's under the sleeve, you're not going to see it so it's not a problem? Well - yes it is - this cut is half the tube thickness and almost all the way round.
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This is what happens when you fit original top mounts with the alloy top spring seat. Only half the threads in the nut are used.
That's not all - do the nut up tight and it locks the piston rod to the top mount. That means the spring will spin on the seat.
Do it up so the mount can turn and it will work loose.
You see the steel tube in the rubber - That's the bearing surface - the weight of the car is on that small area of steel. What do you think that does to the shiny new alloy top cap?
This is the bearing from an alloy top mount with it's spacers. You can see that the spacers are the correct size to fit the nut as it should be.
Bear in mind that the spacers that are normally supplied are both the same as the lower one. We make the top one to suit so you don't have to use a stack of washers.
If you buy a DIY kit, the top cap will arrive with a 10mm hole. This is how it should be opened out to the the required 16mm.
If you ask - we'll do this for you.
This is the top cap that came with the nasty strut. A 50p shape hole at least 17mm and the burrs still there.
This is what you should expect A nice clean burr free hole the correct size.
We make to your requirements but if you want the thread in the wrong place and the paint so thin you can see through it, you'll need to look elswhere.
If you can handle a grinder and you have a welder, do it yourself. You know it makes sense.
