ust have
The critical consideration is to be able to keep warm and to take shelter in bad conditions. This means you need:
- Clothing: unlikely as it may seem, modern clothing is probably more technical than any other piece of equipment you will use. Used correctly, it will keep you both warm and dry even in the worst possible conditions. The two key principles are (1) using a system of multiple thin layers (2) every layer must be designed of modern breathable fabrics which “wick” moisture away to keep you dry. Even a single non-wicking layer (of cotton for example) will soak up your sweat, get damp and make you feel much colder. The basic elements are:
- Base layer: this comprises a short or long sleeve T-shirt plus knickers and bra for the ladies. Each component must be made of a “wicking” fabric such as Lowe Alpine Dryflow or Patagonia Capilene. A common mistake is to continue to use traditional cotton knickers which can get very damp, get cold, and can cause unpleasant rashes. Try some wicking knickers and be converted!
- Mid layer: the mid layer consists of one or more (depending on the temperature) light or middleweight long sleeve tops made from a fabric such as fleece and polartech. Again, if it does not wick, do not use it. Current thinking is to use two (or even three) lighter weight tops, rather than one heavy fleece, since this gives more flexibility for different temperatures.
- Shell layer: this consists of full length waterproof over-trousers and a waterproof jacket. Both need to be made from modern “breathable” fabrics such as Gore Tex or its equivalents which stop water and snow from getting in, but allow (a certain amount of!) moisture and sweat to get out. This combination is essential in keeping you dry. Over-trousers need to have side zips (full or half length) to allow them to be put on over boots and crampons. Jackets should have taped seams, velcro sealed elasticated cuffs, armpit vents to aid water loss, elasticated drawstrings to put the jacket tight at the bottom and must have a hood (see hat).
- Hat: After the shell layers, a good warm hat is the single most important piece of cold weather clothing. A third of the body’s heat can be lost through the head and neck. Insulated hats in fleece or such materials are excellent, but wool is just as good (and can be warmer) since relatively little sweat escapes through the top of the head.
- Gloves or mitts: The warmest ones have gore-tex (or equivalent) breathable waterproof outers with layers of polartech or similar insulation. Some people choose to wear two pairs of gloves, sacrificing some dexterity for additional warmth. It is very much a personal choice, but the important thing is to make sure your hands always stay warm and ideally dry.
- Boots and socks: feet are the one area where it is difficult to maintain the principle of staying fully dry given the amount that feet will sweat and the impermeability of most boots . Ski boots or winter mountaineering boots (whether leather or plastic) need to be waterproof and have enough insulation to keep your feet warm. Socks will invariably be wool or wool/silk blends since nothing else really works. One good quality thick pair is usually sufficient.
- Goggles: as well as protecting your eyes from the sun, goggles (not sunglasses) give excellent protection in high winds. Never set out in winter conditions without them.
- Sundries: some people like to wear a neckscarf. Others like to carry a lightweight down jacket or vest. These can be very warm and are excellent for periods of inactivity (such as rest stops or holding the ropes at a cold belay!). Be aware that a down jacket needs to be worn over your waterproof jacket, since down depends on loft for its insulation, and that down is useless if you allow it to become wet.
- Bivy bags, space blankets: These are emergency “sleeping bag” outers made of plastic or more sophisticated materials which are cheap, pack down amazingly small, and can weigh as little as 50g. They are useful in reducing convective heat loss with an immobile victim (for example, the victim of a crevasse fall with a broken leg) or for shelter during a night out. They should be considered as essential gear even for a summer walk in the hills since you never know when an accident might force you to spend a night out in the open or to care for an immobile casualty.
- Group shelter: lightweight nylon bag, a bit like a tent without poles, which can provide rapid shelter for a group of people. They come in different sizes, require no assembly, provide great wind shelter and can be amazingly warm. The group should always carry enough shelters to be able to accommodate everyone in the party.
- Shovel: will be carried in any case as part of your avalanche kit and is an essential for digging a snow-hole or a snow-cave.
Nice to have
Other stuff you might carry includes:
- Stove: not normally carried unless planning an overnight camping trip, but in an emergency can be useful in melting snow to provide drinking water. Advantages: allow you to make drinks. Disadvantages: weight, bulk and limited fuel supply. On a day trip, a thermos of hot tea can be a good compromise.
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