Out & About in Portugal

Vila Real de Santo Antonio
The town was built in 5 months in 1774 under supervision of Marquis de Pombal to replace Santo Antonio de Arenilha which was destroyed in early 17th century by catastrophic flood caused by a tidal wave, and also to provide a strong face to Ayamonte & Spain. It followed the approach taken in rebuilding the Lisbon’s Baixa district following the great earthquake of 1755. After cutting all the stone in Lisbon and shipping it to Vila Real, they found the same stone nearby. The square first got its very impressive tiling in the 19th century.

* Praca do Marques de Pombal
* Igreja Paroquial
* Museu Paroquial Mon-Wed & Fri 11-15
* Centro Cultural Antonio Aleixo – former market hall

Shops specialise in linens, towels & canteens of cutlery!

Restaurants
Caves do Guadiana (GBR) Try the whitebait, or tuna steak with cloves & garlic.
Edmundo, Avenida da Republica 55, (GBR) unpretentious place on the river bank
Snack Bar 2000 (GBR) Rua Dr Sousa Martins 80, near the turismo, is sound and inexpensive

Tourist Office on Rua Teofilo de Braga, the main pedestrian shopping street, 9.30—13 & 14-17.30

Castro Marim
The town is dominated by the two castles, the Castelo with Roman & Moorish origins which was built in the 13th century by Dom Alfonso III and the Fortress of Sao Sebastian which was built in 1641 when the new Royal dynasty felt it necessary to fortify the border with Spain, during the wars.

* Castelo – Free – Nov-Mar 9-17, Apr-Oct 9-19.
* Museu Arquelogico Free (within castle walls) Oct-Apr 10-13 & 14-17 May-Sept 10-13 & 15-18
* Igreja de Santiago –14c Church where Henry the Navigator is said to have prayed
* Igreja de Nossa Senhora dos Martires – 18th Century built by Knights of Christ. See the side balustrade displaying typical Knights of Christ crosses, and also the harmonious dome
* Igreja de Santo Antonio – built on the third hill containing interesting portrayals of the saint
* Reserva Natural do Sapal de Castro Marim

Monte Gordo
“The only unappealing tourist centre east of Faro” & “joyless modern resort” are just 2 quotes from well known guidebooks, though its apparently very popular with British & Dutch holidaymakers. There are quite a large number of restaurants, pubs, discotheques and a Casino. However has hosted the 2004 Harley Davidson rally so can’t be all bad.

Alcoutim
Beautifully situated 40 km from the mouth of the Guadiana. Originally a river port in Phoenician times, becoming the Roman village Alcoutinium in 2nd Century BC, The Moors ruled until the 1240 when it was taken over by the Portugese under Sancho II. In 1371 Fernando 1 of Portugal & Henry of Castille signed a short lived treaty on a boat in the middle of the river.

* Castelo – dates back to an 11th century Moorish fort, though there were earlier defensive walls. Exhibition of archaeological finds.
* Ermida de Nossa Senhora da Conceicao Chapel dates from 16th century. Only original element remaining is a Manueline doorway. Heavily restored in first half of 18th century, and the Baroque altarpiece is particularly striking.
* Igreja Matriz – Between 1538-1554 the small single aisled chapel was replaced with help from the Santiago Order of Knights with a triple aisled church in Early Renaissance. See the Renaissance portal and the capitals and baptistry with a 16th century bas-relief of John the Baptist
* Ermida de Santa Antonio – The little chapel with the archaic looking circular window above the doorway dates from 16th century.
* Igreja da Miericordia – Built in 16th century and then underwent numerous restorations and renovations. Often flooded, a mark on the outside wall shows the level reached in 1876.
* Around 40 kms away, SE of Martinlongo, at Vaiquerios, Reserva da Foupana, a Nature Park with the ancient Cova dos Mouros mines where with an English audio guide you follow a trail with old mine shafts, reconstructions of primitive homes, furnaces and tools from Calcolithic Age (2500 BC). Donkey rides and small collection of animals, canoeing, stone pulling, mining train. 00351 289 999 229 & 498 436. Nov-Feb 10.30-16, Mar-Oct 10.30-18.30.
* A very enjoyable drive can be made up the side of the river from Foz da Odeleite to Alcoutim, with a variety of stops possible cake shops, Roman remains, viewing points. A guide entitled “The Valley of the Guadiana” is available at the Tourist office in Vila Real.

Cacela Velha
“If anywhere in the Algarve deserves the epithet ‘unspoilt’ “ and “still remarkably untouched by the 20th century” are but two comments which describe this tiny hamlet. Probably dates back to a Phoenician settlement. Today there’s a clutch of cottages, next to gardens, olive & orange groves,surrounded by ploughed fields and there’s nothing much to do but to follow a path down to the beach, sit on the church walls, listen to the surf or watch pigeons wheel above the olive trees. There’s a sand spit to walk out to at low tide.

* whitewashed church with extraordinarily beautiful forecourt, remains of 13th century Gothic side porch, Renaisance main door with the rest dating from 16th & 18th century rebuilding
* old fort, guarding the sands, rebuilt in 1700s

Restaurant
Only one – Casa Velha – (GBR)

Vila Nova de Cacela
The only reason for mentioning it is the restaurant

Restaurant
A Camponesa 281 951 351 (GBR) Huge portions of wonderfully fresh grilled fish at low prices. The surroundings are about as simple as you can get – concrete floor, corrugated iron roof, Formica tables, paper placemats and no walls.

Tavira
In 2003, the Independent voted Tavira “the best unspoilt resort”. Founded by the Turduli in 2000 BC or the Greeks in 400 BC, its fortune was based on tuna fishing. Its castle & churches create a lovely roofline of peaked and weathered terracotta.

* Castelo- Now more a prim garden than a defensive bulwark (Free) Mon-Fri 8-17, Sat-Sun 9-17.30. Features a restored octagonal tower, which gives good views over Tavira
* Igrejas of Santa Maria, (Free) built on the site of the largest Mosque in the Algarve) & Santiago are a beautiful Moorish ensemble heralded by Santa Maria’s weathervane. Inside Santa Maria is the tomb of Dom Paio Peres Correia who liberated Tavira from the Moors in 1242, and its clock tower still has some Arabic-style windows.
* Igreja da Misericordia (Free). Mon-Fri 9-12 & 14-17, near the tourist office has an attractive Renaissance portal, built between 1541 & 1551 with statues of Nossa Senhora da Miericordia, Saints Peter & Paul at its corners
* Carmo church, over the river and through Largo de Sao Braz, has a fine pair of 18th century bench seats, accessible by collecting the key from no. 22 opposite.
* No less than 37 churches
* A host of 18th century buildings
* Ponte Romana – near Praca da Republica spans the river Gilao. Its present design arises from a 17th century restoration, and touch up job in 1989 after floods knocked down a pillar
* Main Entrance to the old town through main gate Porta de Dom Manual (near the tourismo) built in 1520
* Exhibitions of local art at Galeria Municipal (part of Town Hall) (Free) Tue-Fri 10-12.30 & Tue – Sat 14-18 & Casa des Artes on Rua Jaoa Vaz Corte Real
* At the salt pans, just south of the town, you can see the salt water evaporating to create Portugal‘s purest table salt.
* Guided walking tours are on offer from Historical Itineraries of Tavira for a small charge either via tourist office or at 281 321 946 for details
* Camara Oscura

Shopping – lace, band blankets, saddlebags and a diversity of terracotta, copper and wood items.

Restaurants - Lots
Bica, Rua Gilmarante Candido dos Reis 22 (GBR) Typical Regional Dishes such as tuna steak with onions & potatoes
Anazu, Rue Jacques Pessoa 13 Riverfront café
Aquasul, Rua Dr. Augusto Da Silva Carvalho 11-13 fresh pizzas, and vegetarian on request.

Tourist Office: Rua de Galeria 9, Oct-Apr Mon-Fri 9.30-13 & 14-17.30, May-Sept Fri-Mon 9.3—19 & Tue-Thu 9.30-19.

Ilha de Tavira
A dazzling offshore sandbank 11 kms long, miles of sandy beaches, dunes and a small wood. All this and Blue Flag status. Get there by a 10 min ferry ride from the Tavira market during the summer (May-Oct)

* Excellent swimming and water sports
* Scuba diving at the Pedras Del Rei – 351 281 793 495

Restaurant
Sunshine Bar – run by a Irish couple- offers most succulent sardines in town, brought in from Portimao

Santa Luzia
The earthenware you see on the boats are octopus traps, and Santa Luzia is the octopus capital of the Algarve. Take a stroll through the cobbled back streets and admire the fishermen’s cottages which are piled from top to bottom – a riot of geometric and floral patterns in a rainbow of colours. A local special is tentacle slices – charcoal grilled after being air dried on wooden racks.

Restaurants
Capelo – (GBR) meat & fish. Grilled salmon is out of this world and ask for the hard goat’s cheese as a starter.

Luz de Tavira

* Igreja Matriz – dates from 16th Century. Survived 1755 earthquake. An impressive example of Algarve Renaissance architecture. A number of Manueline features have been preserved such as the attractive side door and the font - twisting grapes & vine leaves, and the dome is flanked by a pair of fishtails. Also note the 15th century azulejo (tile) decoration in the main chapel.
* Note the way the village houses are decorated with painted floral or geometric borders and topped with ornate white chimneys.

Manta Rota
A small but growing village, popular in July & August with superb long beaches though lacking in infrastructure. A handful of restaurants and bars on the beach.

Cabanas
A simple fishing village, but a growing package holiday resort in July/August, sheltered from the sea by a sandbank, with many restaurants on its promenade.

Restaurant
A Roda (GBR) – lovely terrace draped with bougainvillea

Estoi
“This unprepossessing little town north of Faro has more than its share of the Algarve’s blockbuster sites”.

* Palacio do Visconde de Estoi – built as a small Rococo palace in late 1700s by Visconde de Carvalha – currently closed, though there are continuing plans to restore it, probably as a pousada. Note its weathervane in the shape of a horse. The gardens though which were laid out in 18th & 19th centuries are open (Free) (Tue-Sat 9-12.30 & 14-17.30)
* Milreu Archaelogical site. 10 min walk from main square. 1st Century Roman grand villa or possibly a spa. Whilst little is left standing above ground, there are some witty fish mosaics. English information sheet (1E) available.
* 6km west at Santa Barbara de Nexe – 15th century Parish Church – 3 aisles – open every day – The chancel is divided from the nave by a Manueline pointed arch decorated with stone rope and coral designs. Spanning the choir is a Manueline ceiling.

Restaurants
Casa do Pasto Victors Rua Vasco da Gama Mon-Sat 12-15 & 19-22. Just off the square on the Olhao road. Cheap & cheerful grill house for 8E per head.
11 other café bars around the main street.

Olhao
A characterful large fishing port with a centre of cubic style houses with flat roofs and outside staircases, and a great market (Mon-Fri) with 2 large halls and silver domes at each corner.

* Jardim Patrao Joaquim Lopes. Benches to admire the view of the mud-flats. Ducks & Geese in a fenced in pond.
* Igreja Matriz – 1698 - centre of town – angel with a bell skirt as weathervane – church tower open for good view Tue-Sun 9.30-12 & 15-18
* Capela dos Afiltos – at rear of church – always open for wives of fishermen to pray during storms
* Capela de Nossa Senhora de Soledade hears the prayers for the lonely. It is a single aisled building with an attractive dome.
* Quinta Da Marim – Ria Formosa Nature Reserve –Environmental & Conservation Centre – 60 hectare - just east of Olhao provides a fascinating introduction to the unique ecology of the area. Aquariums. Self guided walking tour for a closer look at salt pans and an old tuna fishing boat. Tide mill. Bird Hide. Algarve Water Dogs. Chameleon area. 9-12.30 & 14-17
* Lots of boats from eastern end of Jardim Patrao Joaquim Lopes to nearby excellent beaches in Parque Natural da Ria Formosa, such as Praia de Farol (reputedly the best) & Praia de Angares Ilha da Culatra & Praia de Armona & Praia de Fuzeta on Ilha da Armona
* Open air market on Saturdays

Restaurants
Lots on Avenida de 5 Outubro, opposite harbour
Pescador 2 – cheap – full of fishermen
O Aquario – moderate – spicy prawn curry
Vai e Volta - Largo do Gremio – cheap – everything is grilled outside
Restaurant Isidro – most popular - sardines or cuttlefish, prawn stroganoff, eel stew

Pastelariua e Confeitaria Contreirias e Almeida on pedestrianised Rua Dr Joao Lucio for bolos & marzipan sweets

Tourist Centre
Largo Sebastio Martins Mestre – up Rua Olhanese on the left (Mon-Fri 9-12 & 14.30-17, Sat 9-12; June-Sept 9.30-19)

Sao Bras de Alportel
A typical Algarve town with small buildings. Traces of Roman remains found, and there was a Moorish settlement called Xanabus or Xanabras. Most buildings date from after the great earthquake of 1755.

* Museo Etnografico do Trajo Algarvio – Rua Dr Jose Sancho –200m east of the Largo on the Tavira road– 0.80E Mon-Fri 10-12 & 14-17, Sat,Sun & Hols 14-17. Unexpectedly delightful rambling collection of local costumes, handicrafts, agricultural & household goods
* Palacio Episcopal – Sao Bras was considered the summer residence for the Faro bishops. Constructed in late 17th & early 18th Century though now only a reconstruction of some parts exists. Currently housing a school.
* Igreja Matriz – Rua Gago Coutinho – work started in 1725 and after 26 years was finished before being destroyed in 1755 earthquake, when it was reconstructed in 1792. Three aisles with 3 barrel vaulted ceilings. At front of left aisle is a striking neo-classical marble altar – rare as a material and form in this region.
* Old Town. Peaceful area with breezy views of orange groves
* Ruined Water Mill – Follow the sanatorio signs from Sao Bras. Tareja is on the left. Further along the road past the sanatorium entrance . Park near the track just off left just past Tareja. Walk down the track to the left – stream on your right. Within 10min keep ahead, as track goes off right. You reach the river and ruined watermill in 2 min.

Restaurants
Luis dos Frangos – Estrada de Tavira – grilled chicken a speciality
Churrasqueira Afonso Closed Thurs. 500m east of Largo does great grilled dishes
Casa de Pasto Lena – 1.5 km along Loule road – unpretentious casa tipica serving regional dishes, popular with locals
Pousada de Sao Bras – (GBR) extensive views with a good moderate to expensive dining room.

Moncarapacho
A quiet sunny village

Faro

Loule

* Five horseshoes Riding School & Livery. Lessons. 1 & 2 hour hacks. Nature Walks. Pony walk. Stabling & Livery 00351 918 806 623. 10 min from Loule. Call for directions

Salir


Mertola
Roman/Moorish castle and old town overlooking the Guadiana river. A great place to lunch and visit.

Quarteria

* Aqua Show – waterpark with range of slides and pools, birds of prey, bouncy castle, tropical garden, wax museum. 00351 289 389 396